The best grades of olive oil are made simply: The fruit is crushed and the oil collected. Buy the freshest olive oil possible. Pressing is done from midautumn to January, depending upon origin. Usually these oils reach the market by early spring. Store in a cool, dark place and use within 1 year. Keep oil away from heat and light.
Olive oils are graded according to how much acidity they contain and whether they are processed with or without solvents. As yet, the United States has no standard for imported Italian oils.
The following designations are those of the International Olive Oil Council, whose member countries account for 98 percent of the worldΓÇÖs olive oil production. By its regulations these are the definitions of all olive oils exported to the United States:
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
These oils are the premium ones that are pressed and processed without heat or solvents. Color is no indication of quality and ranges from gold to deep green, depending upon where and with what olives the oil is made. Clouded, unfiltered oils are prized by many for their sometimes fuller flavor. Lamentably the words "extra virgin" on the bottle do not guarantee good-tasting oil. If at all possible, sample before buying any quantity. Use extra-virgin oil for seasoning, salads, and cooking.
FINE VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
Pressed and processed without heat or chemicals. With flavor and character more subdued than extra-virgin oil, fine virgin oil is used by many cooks for cooking.
OLIVE OIL
Replaces what used to be called "pure olive oil." This oil is refined with solvents or chemicals, which are steamed off. It will gain color and flavor from blending with virgin olive oil.
"LIGHT" OLIVE OIL
An American marketing title describing refined oil with little flavor or color; a culinary waste of time and money. Its caloric content is the same as all other olive oils, 120 calories per tablespoon.
PUMACE OLIVE OIL
This oil comes from heating the paste left over from olives crushed to produce all the virgin oils. Heating and processing extracts the last remaining oil from the paste, which is then blended with virgin oil. Of no culinary interest.
